Speed up cr10s You - The print speed you can adjust mid-print on the touchscreen is a percentage of what you set in your slicer. 50% for first layer. I've currently got a Cr10s with ezabl clone and standard mount, If your slicer is set to a high print speed, your hot end and bed are going end up moving around a lot faster than it would have with the default acceleration speed limiting it. 3 ext. My questions are, if I lower the print speed from its default of 60mm/s down to say 30mm/s, do I need to adjust the flow rate as well? Page 1 CR-10 Series 3D Printer User Manual The User Manual is for the CR-10 Series of 3D printers. 2 MM Layer height 140 initial layer line width speed 70 retraction distance 0. The nozzle is moving very, very slowly. Start your OctoPrint journey today! Products Hobby. I will update again once I've got something, but so far, it's improved, but not Another cr10s with klipper, the bigger version is just bigger. I tweaked the profile with a few In the process i managed to up the acceleration and print speed to 2500mm/s2 and 80mm/s respectively with out any quality loss. 4mm, max 260℃. Thanks for the info! I don't know klipper at all but I have looked at the . Remove tape and leave the glass bed sticky from the tape no fan and block any ambient breeze. z-offset is adjustable during print. Press adjust on the screen - top left corner. My A filament guide for the CR10s Pro with a 625ZZ bearing. I'm setting up klipper for the first time. 30. cfg file - it looked similar to setting up arduino configuration files in the past. creality cr10spro crealitycr10 . 5mm of coast, and -0. It's not the sensor, because it actually doesn't heat up. That said, iv always had good luck troubleshooting 3d printers and getting them to print well. 02 nozzle, it will print in even better detail (or so they say, I don't have one yet). The Creality CR-10S Pro V2 did a fantastic job in PLA with the bridges, with only a few strings dangling on the longest spans but failed to impress with its ABS version or either Eiffel Tower. 4 turbo + TMC2209 + klipper . 2. It can speed up/down the extrusion detween transitions of slow and fast movements. While CR10s with SKR v1. I'd also lubricate your ptfe tube/hotend. realised any money id put in was likely to end up getting lost, and my priorities shifted to enjoying my time at university rather than trying too hard to plan ahead. Ended up swapping the nozzle for a . I keep getting clogs mid-print after a seemingly good 1st couple of layers. speed was about 65mm/s Split the print up into the individual components and they all print fine with no shift over and over again. What is the a good axis speed to run (mm/min). Perhaps I will try a 5015 adapter because a larger fan can run at lower speeds. Spent a day tuning the printer to print faster without any defects and I settled on 2000mm/s acceleration, 160mm/s print speed and 80mm/s wall speed Now it prints twice as fast and prints still look perfect Very happy with the printer Max. Do I need to modify the V2 config file for it to be able to work with my V1 printer? Hi, Very glad there is now a forum =) What is the: "maximum speed/feedrate of the individual axes and whether their control should be inverted or not" X mm/min (invert control) Y mm/min (invert control) Z mm/min (invert control) E mm/min (invert control) for the CR-10? If that ends up helping, you can run retraction tests from there to dial it in. 24x7 support. Skip to content. 0. to work and instead you need some extra decimal after these layer heights to properly set things up for how the motors 'step' to get cleaner prints, but I don't know what those numbers are. From left to right the retraction is 6mm, 5mm and 4mm. 0 upgraded hot end is mainly suitable for Ender 3, Ender 3-V2, Ender 3 Pro, CR10, CR10S, VORON V0, VORON2. Adding a z hop did not help. I installed the Spider 3. For example, to deploy probe, simply type M401, then you should see the bltouch probe as I still have to figure out how to edit the firmware anyways to get around the print speed limit (I believe it caps on my CR10s Pro V2 around 100mm/s but it could be 150mm/s, not entirely sure) DOBOT CR10S EAN 6150408682651 Wide Radius Cobot with SafeSkin Designed to provide your product line and production efficiency by using an easy to deploy CR collaborative robot within 20 minutes to set up and quickly CR10s Pro V2 - Brand new, stuck on loading screen. But CR-10 mini without T-Bracket (Right) & Decoration Strip. I want to discuss the unboxing, how to set it up, my experiences in setting it up, the provided instructions, slicing, Upgraded Fans in my CR10S Pro + learned a bit about axial vs blower fans After watching the video from Nerys I ended up reinstalling the original blower fan but at 12V. I'm at the point now where I'm actually upping my nozzle and bed temps a whole lot because I've found some ways to up my print speed a whole lot too, without suffering quality or other problems. No negative effects, whatsoever. GitHub Gist: instantly share code, notes, and snippets. Do you know Default Printing speed: 55mm/s Outline underspeed: 60% Solid infill Underspeed: 80% Support Underspeed: 80% X/Y movement speed: 80 mm/s Z movement speed: 16,7 mm/s I have also PID TUNED the new hotend and bed I need Then look up gcode for the bltouch commands. I've looked into it and it appears that if I lower my print speed the quality of my prints will increase. 10 I only print PETG on my CR10S. CR10S Pro V2 issues with BLTouch upgrade upvotes r/BambuLab. The current part takes 2 minutes to print, yet the whole operation takes 10 minutes. Also for longer prints I’ve been experiencing some x axis shifting. Setup, I’ve played with raspberry pi before, but it still took me a few days between work and kids and other stuff. (The Klipper defaults only allow movement up to 200mm) # This file overrides the homing sequence to raise the Z axis before # homing the X and Y axes, and then moves the nozzle to the center I recently got a cr-10s and I'm having some difficulty levelling the bed. I currently print around 170-180mms (limited by accel) without any issue. The CR10S already has a bootloader, so goto the th3d site and download the Marlin firmware Arduino bundle. Description. My only complaint is due to my own stupid method of mounting the stepper bracket to the gantry (I only used one bolt, so it rotates every now and again). If I'm printing a miniature I usually do either 0. print speed: Claimed 180 mm/s (I only tested mine to 60mm/s) Closed print chamber: No; Bed levelling: Automatic — via Capacitive sensor; Print bed: 24V Heated capable of 110C in 5 minutes; Display: LCD touchscreen; Connectivity: Micro SD card, USB; Built-in camera: No; Build Area: 300x300x400; Construction of the CR10S Pro. Reply reply If it's a CR10S or so, please add it at the beginning of the post. I'm currently seeing issues when trying to print anything. 20mm layer heights. Its still a little "fuzzy" like cobwebs are on the tip but everywhere I look it says that 8. 4 printers Nozzle: hardened steel Heating block: chrome zirconium Best Settings For CR10s Pro V2? Question I just got this printer and was wandering if anyone had a guide or some tips for the best settings for Cura discuss the Secretlab TITAN Evo or Secretlab Classics and Secretlab The Creality 3D CR-10S is our top pick for those shopping for a 3D printer on a budget. Flow is not adjustable via screen. It seems to cool down to fast and I get beading. It will always change the speed no matter where I am in the menus or if I'm printing. I turned the settings down at first to be safe but the print time seems way too long now I'm looking for a new 3D printer since my Monoprice one took a shit and the customer service is hot horse shit. 2 vs . Guides, Tutorials. I've moved my filament above the printer so it feefs directly into the extruder. It's not available (that I know of) on stock firmware and can be enabled on custom marlin firmware. string free prints. Print Speed Nozzle Retraction Settings Additional settings or relevant information is always encouraged. Profil créé pour l'imprimante Creality CR-10S Pro V2 suite au test sur le site internet www. I do run a Micro Swiss all metal hot end c/w Micro Swiss direct drive. And mounting of the keyboard plate requires studs which hold the screws. 2 layer, 205C, 20mm/s outer wall, 35mm/s inner, 6mm and 25mm/s retraction, optimize wall order, tree supports, Cura 4. 8mm on my retraction distance but still looked like garbage. Overall quality, capability, and speed increased very noticeably. 213. The CR-10S holds its own against models that cost nearly four times as much. I can see the filament chewed up by Print speed (extrusion): up to 50 mm/s Print speed (travel): up to 150 mm/s Print nozzle diameter: 0,4 mm I'd ignore the part about speed, but the rest are the settings that Benchy is supposed to be printed in. Specifications on the CR10S PRO. Reanudar impresión: El nuevo tablero de control From my experience with the volcano hotend on the cr10s pro, going direct drive and volcano in one go adds a lot of weight to the x axis which ends up slowing your max speed down quite a bit. Would love to get it working on the cr10 but may pick up s1 to try it out if I can’t get it working. #define CHAMBER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE 30. Wet filament will cause a # DGus klipper Config # This is my working Config for the cr10s pro, with Bl touch, and hero me shroud. Your typical print speed should be Beyond print speed, acceleration is a very important part of speeding up your 3D prints. Had the CR10S for a few months now and it's been working great. It has an impressive set of printing capabilities, such as its absolutely massive build envelope and a Prusa says run the fan at 50% for their printers. That means that your speed limit will depend on the nozzle and heater you’re using, the motors and rails, the overall rigidity and rails of your printer frame, and many other factors that are specific to your printer. Print it at 245, bed 70 with gluestick and fan off. After a prolonged absence, due to health issues, I’ve picked up printing again. Same menu but on the right side. I'm using Creality Slicer 4. Schools. Friendly community. Hey guys, I would like to get a magnetic bed for my CR10S Pro V2, I bought it second hand and it already has a magnet on the Y carriage, so I just need the bed to "complete" the set, do you guys have any suggestions, it needs to be a 310 x 320, like the image shows. 0mm and it comes out better. they help you fix ’em! Ender 3 Pro $185. I only print As it's printing click on adjust on the touch screen and you can move your Z up and down. When going to select a gcode file, the printer will add a "~1" to the So I go up in retraction distance all the way up to 8. Pretty sure the issue is not with the thermistor as the nozzle will heat up to 215 and hold it just fine, So, I set the fan speed to 25% and not to start until 1. Cheaper than outlaying for P1P. Retraction at 2mm at speed of 25mm/s. Taurus Speed Loader. Due to the different Speed up your printing by going with a bigger nozzle – 0. Also checked y belt tension, y eccentric nuts, and lowered my jerk and acceleration without any improvement. last week the bed stopped working and I couldn't figure out why. After a few failed updates from Cura and general instability, i made the move to Prusa Slicer 2. Credit to Dustin-Mustangs. 3D The only problem I can't seem to figure out is the stringing. I don't know about the cr10s but on the Cr-10v2 I was able to reach up to 60mm/sec with great quality and on a phone stand I printed I reached 100mm/sec and got pretty good results as well using Zyltech PLA. Speed around 35 - 40 I think. Tags. Di adiós al derroche de Filament y el tiempo. I have a CR10s Pro V2 with stock firmware. (Amazon has some nice quiet 24 Volt fans - but stay away from Noctua. 40mm/s. Did you have issues w/ the EEPROM? Ended up using SD flash emulation as a work around, but I think the board info is wonky in current marlin. Use some olive oil on a sponge and pinch it gently around the filament by the runout sensor and set it to extrude 100mm or Welcome to my new playlist, Panda Prints! Today's video describes how to tune your e-steps / do an extruder calibration on your Creality CR-10 / CR-10S print I have set up the printer similar or exactly the same as other CR10S profiles are on this site and every time I try to print a file via Octopi the print fails because before yes, X - 300mm, Y - 300mm, Z - 400mm, X & Y speeds - 6000 mm/m, Z speed 200mm/m, E speed 300mm/m, no invert controls, nozzle 0. It will give you much finer control while allowing you to tune your printer for higher Can ordinary consumables be printed at high speed? Answer: Yes, you need to select the corresponding material configuration in the slicing. ¶ 3. I even went down between 0. The stock extruder doesn't have the ability to handle that much filament as fast as prusa has the stock set up. I was looking to upgrade it further in an effort to quiet it a bit and possibly increase print speed, currently I run my prints at around 25% feed rate. It just gets stuck on this screen. I'll let you know how I get #define EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_SPEED 255 // 255 == full speed. I'm still on stock everything. (Check the bearings - you want ball bearings or "fluid dynamic" (also called hydrodynamic) bearings. Pre-printing Preparation ¶ 3. Here is an I find that when I adjust the fan speed through Cura, Here are some tips & tricks I’ve picked up since buying a Creality CR10S. * * :[2400, 9600, 19200, 38400, 57600, 115200, 250000, 500000, 1000000] */ 5. Also, add if the [PAID] Rainbow stickers and decals: increases print speed by at least 500%. 1/0. All gists Back to GitHub Sign in Sign up * You may try up to 1000000 to speed up SD file transfer. Guess the easiest way to speed it up is printing at . I'm getting jerky motion on all axis above about 60mm/min print speed. Ok so I didn't have much but hopefully, someone will find this useful and we will get some more good tips in the comments. 5 mm - 0. I've seen a lot of videos of people printing with the CR10s and the prints off that thing look amazing. Your typical Learn how to set up OctoPrint on your Creality CR-10S Pro V2 3D printer with our easy-to-follow guide. The modifications involve both mechanics and electronics. Hotend: replaced it with a microswiss one with heat break, way cleaner prints. The electronic document community developed back-up saving protocols and cloud technologies to protect their materials from being lost. You shouldn't have to change bed temperatures from whatever you usually use, But since a few days I have problems with adhesion. 4 turbo and TMC2208 drivers. I have a CR10S5 and had to lower it to about 35mm print speed and 50 infill. 2/0. I run my CR10S Pro, for PLA, at 205 / 50. Reply reply More replies More Plain masking tape on a glass bed. CR10S-PRO Prusa Slicer profile. 65mm/s) if u set the speed to 120, its 20% faster than 65mm/s - new speed is 78mm/s. The print speed is essential for the perfect printing with PETG on the CR10 printer. I messed with speed to half and extrusion speed up and that seemed to help a bit but still was having issues with layering. Accuracy: +/-100 Micron Layer height: 100–400 Microns Filament diameter: 1. Having trouble with my CR10S Pro V2. Better board and changeable drivers: Got the BTT Skr 1. Is there a Thx for the heads up. It is also applicable for the CR-10S/CR-10 S4/CR-10 S5. I'm considering installing a new firmware. Did not realize it did not support cr10 pro v1 out of the box. Seems like over extrusion if the filament keeps going up and hitting the nozzle. What speed are you printing at? So i got this printer a few days ago and i need to get rid of stringing. 100V-240V can It is defined in mm/s^2. 4 Turbo. Profil qualité en 0. The ABS bridging test had all sorts of warping and layer separation, while the PLA Eiffel Tower lost a lot of detail and had I currently own an Ender-3, I'd like to upgrade to a printer with greater build volume. I can’t find any specific similarities in the prints that this happens Print speed: Up to 40mm/s: Lightweight printing can be done by using the settings determined in the paragraph above. In general that gets the print time down to close to the S3D profile, but See what people are saying on Acceleration and Jerk value for CR-10s ?. Or even changing the nozzle and going bigger. I'm sorry, I know what you mean, I just find that hilarious. Am I correct in assuming CR-10_V2-BLTouch is the Marlin firmware for my Creality CR-10s Pro v2? Any websites you can direct me to on how to compile and install the Marlin firmware? A list of functional features would also be helpful comparing it to Tiny Machines firmware Thank you!!! Short specifications FDM（Fused Deposition Modeling） 300х300х400 printing size 180 mm / C 1. I tried different settings, but nothing has helped so far. That will really speed things up. Too Does anyone have any tips for speeding up prints on a CR10 Max? I'm consistently putting out 10+hr prints, and anything I could do to accelerate past the 50mm/s current speed would help. That means the temperature must be hot enough to extrude enough plastic, the extruder must be strong enough to push so much plastic, and the stepper mo You could experiment with going up to about 80mm/s if speed is extremely important, but a more reasonable 50mm/s is recommended. This may sound stupid, but I recently changed my cr10s firmware to Repetier, and when slicing in cura, print times scaled up to 10 times compared it's not even 25% done. WVU Essentially, the lower the speed, the lower the layer height, the better its going to look (and the longer its going to take to print). Just move it so the filament is squishing nicely on to the bed. Are overhangs similar and this was too slow? Or should it be slower? Perhaps I could add a post processing script to change speed in those Hey, had a quick look through the K1 settings, looks reasonable but the default speed settings are pretty high (500mm/s) not sure how my cr10s will take it, it is heavily moded but still, been having an on off issue with layer shifts/z binds due to limited time it's taken me quite awhile to get it sorted and then some steppers decided to die on me, supposedly resolved, regarding the print Beyond print speed, acceleration is a very important part of speeding up your 3D prints. 5mm (adjust for taste, I suppose); I'm CR10s pro won’t start up! Please help! Troubleshooting I just finished a print, turned the machine off, now when I go to start another one my printer won’t start back up. They show up as choices I could use but once they are drag and dropped I get the red screen of failure. This line is the acceleration the printer will make during printing moves. Some of the speed gains are pretty cool, without sacrificing quality. Thank you! #define SERIAL_PORT -1 #define SERIAL_PORT_2 0 #define BAUDRATE 230400 // Standard baud rate, used because my Orange Pi Zero is incompatible with 250,000 #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_BTT_SKR_V1_4 // File defining the motherboard pinouts #define CUSTOM_MACHINE_NAME "CR-10S" // Nice name for the LCD screen #define I've put a Biqu H2 extruder / hotend on my CR10S Pro. Feature: fast config/slow config external perimeter speed: 50/40 infill speed: 100/60 max print speed: 150/100 perimeter speed: 60/50 small perimeter speed: 30/25 solid infill speed: 100/50 support A 3D printer actually involves a lot of things happening at once, and increasing the print speed will depend on everything else in the printer needing to keep up with the nozzle. also looking into building a box around it and adding watercooling to the steppermotors and installing an titan Aqua. I've bumped the speed up to 120mm and now I'm playing with the retraction settings to see if I can get rid of it. 500W large power and wide voltage power supply. to use with the DGus LCD Firmware (Volanaro) Skip to main content Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home V6 2. In my opinion, the fan speed is the problem. 5. Top Side Spool holder. Overture PLA @ 200 and 40. #define CHAMBER_AUTO_FAN_SPEED 255 /** * Part-Cooling Fan Multiplexer * * Poor layer quality on new CR10s Pro V2. leblog3d. Heatbed: I switched from 12V to 230V with a 750W Silicone heat matt and an SSR. Try 1. 0 on my CR10S, and it absolutely took my prints to the next level. It´s always at high speed and I can´t change the speed through the Creality Slicer. I use capricorn tube on the bowden. I am really running out of ideas with this one. CR-10 SE 3D Printer 600mm/s High-Speed Printing 3D Printers CR Touch Auto Leveling with Sprite Direct Extruder, Official Creality 3D Printer Ender-3 FDM DIY Printers High-Precision Printing Stable Power Supply Rapid Heating Up Quality Extruder Resume Printing High-standard V-profile Printing Size: CR10S PRO V2, CR-10 MAX 3D Printer Amazon. * * :[2400, 9600, 19200, 38400, 57600, 115200, 250000, 500000, 1000000] */ Hi all having some issues with stringing and wanted to see what other people have settings for using Cura, 0. In addition, it reduces chance of print failure by 10% There are ways to stiffen up from the rear, but I still noticed problems. FX Factory, Pixel Film and others. Perhaps try switching to a volcano first and see how it performs before adding the direct drive? im using the stock cura profile for a cr10s-pro except that i have firmware retraction and print speed /travel speed set to 150 which auto sets the innerwall to 75 which i bumped up a lil. was working fine. 00 OBO! Ender 3 $155. Ive also turned on and off combing as well as adjusting speed settings in Cura etc. Print with notch facing up. E very CR10S-Pro owner knows the new stepper drives are amazingly quiet but the fans are out-of-control loud. 12. Standard is 100 (100% of your speed from S3D ex. I checked the other empty fan header as well, just in case, and it behaves the same way. So I'm curious what other people have been able to achieve on their CR-10 Smart Pro. Some larger objects I'll go up to 15 Welcome to the Official Creality Website New Year Sale 2025 Learn more; Official Creality Website I upgraded my Cr10s with a bunch of parts. 8/13/2019 – USED ENDER Printers back in stock! I’ve bought 3. Contribute to BondtechAB/Bondtech-CR10s development by creating an account on GitHub. The aluminium This final result is actually on the stock CR10S Pro hotend with stock tubing using Hatchbox PETG. Surprisingly, I've read bridges actually do better at higher speeds. com: 【New Upgrade】 CR Official Spider All Metal Hotend, Up to 300℃ High Temperature High Speed 3D Printer Hotend Kit Fit for Ender 3, Ender 3v2, Ender 3 pro, Ender 3 Max, CR-10,CR In order to stabilize and prevent switches from moving when being pressed, each of them sits in a socket. I had already done the Noctua fans and a magnetic flex bed and was happy with how PLA was printing, I’m getting this banding on my Cr10s pro V2 and can’t seem to fix it. Since the CR10s uses threaded rods and step motors, I know it doesn't step in perfect steps that'd allow things like 0. 00 OBO! CR-10 259. First and foremost, I set it up to use communication via usb cable and in klipper I have following line: serial: homing_speed: 50 second_homing_speed: 2 homing_retract_dist: 2 [tmc2209 stepper_x] uart_pin: P1. You would have to reduce your print speed so your layer takes longer and has time to cool. are you also planning on doing this for the X-axis and Z? I personally want to get of the wheels as quick as possible. There's the firmware from Tinymachines , which seems to be up until now I have had no issues with this machine other than a cooling fan going out which was a simple fix. 1 Cleaning the Build Plate. For ABS I let plain masking tape pre-heat on 110C glass bed for 10 mins. For real, though, if you want to start speeding up your prints, you could try looking at setting up klipper. Print speed is also adjustable during print. So 200 seems ok. Definitely worth it. We used the resonance I've reduced this sometimes when I saw signs of over-extrusion, and when I've been pushing the speed a lot, I've pushed this up to 110% or even 120%, with 10-15 degree increases in My set up is a Creality CR10s PRO V2 with a MicroSwiss All Metal hotend. Print farm. Why can’t the printer re-use the settings from the previous print? If Bambu Studio had an option box saying Re-use settings it SPEED Infill speed: 60 mm/s Inner wall speed: 60 mm/s Outer wall speed: 30 mm/s Support speed: 50 mm/s INFILL Infill density: 10% Infill pattern: cubic SUPPORT (I usually don’t use supports, but these are my settings anyway) Support pattern Moreover, its usage is not straightforward, in particular for newbies (my CR10S is going to be a present for a friend of mine without any 3D printing experience). I was hoping you guys should tell me the settings you use for the Micro Swiss hotend kit. I just updated my cr10s pro v2's firmware with the most current version of Tiny machines' custom firmware. My prints randomly shift about 2 or 3 layers dramatically, usually in the middle or near the end of the print, and then keeps going. I got my cr10s pro like 2 months ago. If you get a 0. Your printer slows down when changing direction and then speeds back up again in straight lines. 100% fan was too much for me at 225-230 C. r/BambuLab. I got this CR-10S and haven't done any upgrades aside from an all metal extruder, blue Capricorn tube, and new print bed. Once you flash the firmware in the printer run Fluidd load the example config for CR10S D I'll need to I would definitely upgrade the firmware. 575 is fairly slow, but The Creality CR-10S Pro V2! I’m very excited it’s arrived. 8 to speed up printing PPE. I use two sets of print speeds for PLA on my (modified) CR-10S at 0. At 40% the bridging is pretty good. 8. leaving the user unknowing whether adjusting a speed/accel up or down is actually executed during the print. But there is a hard limit to how fast you 400mms would be trouble even for a voron, unless you really crank up the cooling. 1. They're quiet, but don't hold up to hours of high speed running. Slicer profiles, firmware updates and suggested upgrades for the Creality CR-10S Pro and CR-10S Pro V2 Anyways, I have a CR-10S with an EZABL, and cannot seem to get it to register correctly, so it ends up crashing into the table before it senses it and then retracts. Also, lol, get you a filament dryer, or at the very least, go to a thrift store and pick up a dehydrator and modify it to dry out your filament. but I think its getting time to clean up the rails 13 votes, 12 comments. Next, we printed a bridging torture test and a model of the Eiffel Tower. I get good results between 20 and 40% fan speed on the CR-10 V2. To set this, search “wall speed” in the Print Settings pane, and Picked this up because I wanted to try it out. Klipper allows you to push the speed to the limits of your hardware instead of being bottlenecked by the software. I too have a CR10s Pro V2 and found myself in that same pickle like 8 months ago. Welcome to Bambu Lab! Here we Hey all. I get some stringing which I heat gun off and clean the prints up with a quick sand. In the 3D printing world, if power is lost during a print, not only is the product likely That travel speed is 1/3 or 1/4 what it should be. If I use the auto calibration program to set all four corners to the correct height (using a sheet of paper) I find that when I actually go to print that the nozzle starts from higher up. It is important that the initial layer adheres properly to the construction plate, therefore, go slowly. Set your retraction distance low, I like 2mm and speed at 30mm/s Get the hardened steel nozzle, then find and print a nice solid petg fang cooling setup. If there's a lot of small movements, I'll still run it at 10mm/s. With some minor tweaks to the printer and the standard Cura profile some great results can be M220 S100 ; Reset Speed factor override percentage to default (100%) M221 S100 ; Reset Extrude factor override percentage to default (100%) G91 ; Set coordinates to relative: G1 F2400 E-3 ; Retract filament 3mm at 40mm/s to prevent stringing: G0 F5000 Z20 ; Move Z Axis up 20mm to allow filament ooze freely: G90 ; Set coordinates to absolute This is just because heat is building up in the print. Currently looking at getting another one for my CR10V3 w/ Titan. 08 height and a printing speed between 25-35. 27. I haven't gone any higher than that but I hope this helps! Hi *, I installed a microswiss to my CR10s pro v2 yesterday, Speed. 0 on my CR10s Pro. Simple & powerful 3D printing. For those who have experience with CR10(s) and Ender 5 plus or similar models, could you enlighten me if the Ender 5 Plus is worth getting over CR10(S) The best 3d printer by All3dp. My K1 runs PLA at 230 with bed at 45, For printing with high-speed PLA, select Hyper PLA on the right. The fans run on 12 Volts - you can throw a few buck stepdowns, or you can replace the fans. Hello all! So I'm fighting this setup already 3rd day and need some help. It delivered exceptional print quality — almost matching that of our top pick overall, the Ultimaker 2+. Or just be patientlol. 00 OBO! Think of it like a dance between speed, quality, and strength—knowing when to slow down for detail and when to speed up for efficiency is the key to becoming a 3D printing master. com in 2020!Creality CR-10S Pro V2 comes with a UL Certified Meanwell power supply. If the build plate has leftover materials or dirt, or is contaminated by Thanks so much for your reply - I ended up figuring it out as I was being a completely blind fool lol. I upgraded my CR10S to the MicroSwiss hotend and the Tempered Glass for better adhesion. I checked for It's about half a volt when the speed is set to 0, and does not change when the speed is set to 255. Retraction 4mm @ 30mm/sec. Everything else is pretty much stock Modifications have been to set acceleration to match the printer using the M501 command as well as boosting print speed up to around 80 mm/s. I’m trying to minimize or the best case get rid of the stringing entirely! I’m also using the tiny machines cura profile for the cr10s pro. I'm also trash when it comes to soldering and things of that nature. 04 or 0. I recently set up octoprint with my cr10-s. 6mm. Default speed, I even So i got this printer a few days ago and i need to get rid of stringing. . The one time that I was able to trick it with my finger over the sensor timed correctly, it You are probably correct, even with those settings it’s moving a lot of mass and shakes the table a bit. 75 (I cant understand I see people say . Please refer to the feeding steps. 75mm ABS, PLA Hotbed 260 ℃ 1 Nozzle 0. I used the standard profile in cura for the cr10s pro and also increased retraction distance and speed but the result is always more or less this: Stringing Test. 255C nozzle 100C bed 0 fan, first few layers at 30-50% speed, no more than 30% fan once print is going good. By quite a bit. Manage multiple printers. The port I needed is located just about a centimeter down I have been looking into upgrading my cr10s beyond the thingiverse upgrades. * You may try up to 1000000 to speed up SD file transfer. I also temporarily swapped the part's fan's plug to the hotend's (12v)header, and it spun right up. There's far better explanations about it on this forum and others. Call +1(239)302-00-53. 1. PETG Print Speed. In this video, we will learn how to tune acceleration for your prin Yes, the CR-10S Pro V2’s PTFE hot end can reach up to 260°C, and its heated build plate supports up to 100°C, making it versatile for printing with a range of materials, including PLA, Best way to bump up your speed is probably to upgrade your printer. But if I use the knob to change a value, it changes the value AND the speed. Funky problem, very fun to see the printer go down to 20% and then shoot up to 250%. 4mm, 1 extruder. Monitor de filamento: El CR-10S viene con un monitor conveniente que detectará cuando la impresora se haya quedado sin filamento, automáticamente pausando la impresión, y alertará al usuario para que retoque el Filament antes de continuar. Using a Creality CR10S pro printer. The layer area is very small and doesn’t have time to cool before you do the next layer. After you've done input shaping and pressure advance you'll have a clearer idea of what you can set on your printer. CR10S + SKR 1. Cr10s with ezabl and klipper - eli5 . As a consequence, I modify my CR10S in order to improve speed printing (maintaining good quality) and easyness of usage. I left the dampener on the The promises were exciting! I knew up front that the CR-10S wasn't a supported enable_pin: !PD7 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 40 endstop_pin: ^PE5 position_endstop: 0 position_max: 300 homing_speed: 50 [stepper_y] step_pin: PF6 dir and sent it to the cr10s using a USB cable and Cura 15. 0mm is better for Bowden Tube setups and bad for Direct Drives. 6MM nozzle on the cr10s pro/cr10 Printing 0. I've put a bit of it into Forex and stuff but the amount of time I've put in All the prints were at 200c nozzle, 60c print bed, 50mm/s retraction speed. I'm in a . 12 (vous pouvez le 0. I’ve replaced the z rods, x when I mess with temp or speed I can get variations like I solved mine when I tighten up the wobble in my heated bed by tightening the I have a client who wants some prints with very high precision as well as high resolution. 60 or I see 6 and Im just confused by what it means) I have an CR10S Pro V2 running Tiny Machines version and looking to take it to the next level with Klipper. Sharing a few steps I took in of the first layer. This is on a CR10S Pro V2 with Tiny Machines firmware running Micro Swiss direct drive with a z-sync setup on a smooth PEI flex plate. This time with a Ceality CR-10 Max. I run my first layer and brim very slow at 20ms and then speed up to 80ms for the rest of the print. In this video, we will learn how to tune acceleration for your prin 8) Ensure the wall speed setting is 50 mm/s so that we can ensure the temperature we choose can handle all speeds. Teaching Tech on YouTube has some great videos on how to make the couple of changes to I do a lot of R&D prints of mostly small parts. I bumped up the jerk settings to 15 mm/s, From there I was pretty happy and the rest (default temp, overhang, etc) should be tuned in the slicer per filament anyway. Has anyone else done this, maybe on a non-Pro CR10S (same ATMEGA processor) Creality unfortunately Max Travel Speed [mm/s]: 180; Automated Buildplate Calibration: Yes; FAQs Yes, the CR-10S Pro V2’s PTFE hot end can reach up to 260°C, and its heated build plate supports up to 100°C, making it versatile for printing with a range of materials, including PLA, PETG, and more. I downloaded the config file for CR10S PRO V2 from github. (I run one of these prints any time I do ANYTHING to my printer (Replace Nozzle, I converted my CR-10 (no S) to direct drive a few months ago. and use M5 hardware. 3. A duet board running klipper firmware will more than double your printing speed. Every project has its Hello all. The aluminium My issue is I am getting a lot of stringing when printing and eventually my extruder seems to backup under heavy retraction and then fails to extrude. I discovered that, as you said, that is not even the port I need for flashing. I looked at a bunch from Prusa but none of them are in a decent price range (~ $500) or up to decent quality. Like someone said 3000mm/s Max. 75 mm Compatible materials: PLA, ABS, TPU, composite filaments Contribute to stooged/Config-For-Klipper development by creating an account on GitHub. But the problem is that I have V1 which comes with inductive touch probe and the V2 comes with BL Touch. fr. used it around 20+ times for small/ medium prints. Hello, After replacing the motherboard on my cr10s pro v2 I cannot level the bed, nozzle crash into the bed Impresora 3D oficial Creality CR 10S. 8 nozzle My goal here is to get the thermal runaway feature and speed up the print process. I used the standard profile in cura for the cr10s pro and also increased retraction distance and speed but the result is always more or less this: Turn your travel speed up 25mm/s Turn It has no trouble keeping up with the CR10 SE speed and much quieter than the curtain fans found on revival machines like Elegoo’s Neptune 4 she got a Creality CR10s Your going to need to slow down the speeds. Well there are 5 of them! This post will cover swapping out the three I would try a temperature tower from 210°C-235°C in 5°C increments, and see what looks best. 12. 05 extra restart I prefer Software fixes). Ive tried stringing tests printed from temperatures 190-210 with retractions from 3mm-11mm and speeds from 30mm/s-60mm/s and pretty much every single stringing test looks exactly the same.
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